Feedback

Here is a selection of feedback from our bikers from past trips.  If you have biked with us recently and would like to add your comments - then send us your feedback and we will add it here.

Articles and Feedback (click the link below to hop to selected piece)

 

Some Advice from our Previous Bikers (click the link below to hop to selected piece).

 

(Please note that this is advice from our previous bikers and not advice from Escape Adventures - please do not hold us to any of this advice!).

 


Poem by Janice Pritchard (on her forth trip with us), Canada - Chile & Argentina, January 2010
Patagonia Sin Represas

When it's 30 below and you're shovelling snow
Your mind thinks of going away.
So you pack up your bike, make everything  right
And fly down south to Chile.

Puerto Montt has some charms, mainly fish farms
And before  we have aa dinner of salmon
We meet up with the crew, they're mighty but few
And John says,"Right ,let's bike man."

The roads they are rough, but our backsides get tough
As we bike our way past lakes so deep
We stop at a farm, with cabanas so warm
And next night camp in a field with the sheep.

We pick up 3 boys, with not enough toys
As we head to the Argentine border.
The bambinos don't get there, it doesn't seem fair
But next trip their gear will be in order.

With speed boat and ox beasts we head for the East
And cross many lakes in a day.
The border guard hurries and stamps while we worry
That Argentina is too far away.

It's not that we suffer, but it's hard to get supper
In Argentina before 9 or 10.
But the loom is divine, well worth the time
To wait till we get fed again.

In Patagonia we know the winds they do blow.
And always they come from the West.
Up and down hills we go, I'm still very slow
But a tail wind is always the best.

It seems that it rains on the Patagonian plains
And sometimes it feels we're at sea.
But John keeps good cheer with the help of a beer
While he switches the trip to Plan C.

Of course the rain stops and we bike to the top
Of a valley so green and so hilly.
The countryside's bare of people to care
What happens to this part of Chile.

She's tough to know.  So much ice so much snow.
But she certainly does impress us.
She's a biker's delight, full of wonderful sights.
She's Patagonia Sin Represas.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mark Ens, Canada - Kenya and Tanzania, October 2009
I can't think of big enough words to describe how amazing this trip was. I've never ridden "off-road" and I've never tented, but If it's all like this I'll do it again!
Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Emmanuel Jimennez, Philippines - China and Tibet, September 2009
John: Thanks a million for everything.  You crafted a briliant itinerary and implemented it skillfully, making many changes to adjust what were sometimes trying and unpredicatable conditions.  Also I think your leadership had a lot to do with the great chemistry that bound the whole team together.


This was truly a memorable experience.  Aside from the exhilaration of the biking, the itinerary offers a wonderful exposure to diverse cultures, scenery and culinary delights.  I recommend it highly. Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Caroline Denee, New Zealand - Kenya and Tanzania, August 2009
This tour has it all.  Stunning scenery from Mt Kilimanjaro to the Indian Ocean and everything in between.  The dry bush, the lush forest of the Usambara Mountains, the colourful Maasai people, the wildlife, the game parks and the local people we met along the way - always willing to smile, to laugh and to make us feel welcome in their country.  So much variety packed into one trip, the most amazing experience you can have on a bike.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Monk & Rosie Mann, USA - Kenya and Tanzania, August 2009
Mandy & John,
From both Rosie and I, a special thank you!! The bike trip was outstanding and a very special thank you to Dave for all he did to get Rosie to the finish line! What a fabulous group we had on this trip. Everyone got along and it was fun for us to experience the new language we learned from the brits and newzealanders!!!

I do have a comment about the trip - I would make no changes!! I was amazed at each days route and how John was able to find the back roads and campsites along the way. Camping is what makes this trip so special. The food was the best - Tarn is a super cook and quite a character!!!

Again from both of us...THANK YOU!!!! Also, a special thank you to Dave, Tarn, and Joseph. Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Gillian Arcone, UK - Kenya and Tanzania, August 2009
Hi Mandy. The holiday was amazing and we truly had a wonderful time. It was hard at times - I was not as prepared as I thought for the biking. I know the bus is the option but when you are there you really want to ride it! And of course I had not realised that we would have to put up and take down our tents!!!! However this all became part of a great holiday and we had so much fun because of the tents!

The group was so special we were a family - that was really fantastic. Tarn & Dave are great people - Tarn delighted us with her cooking and sense of humour, Dave always organised, calm, funny and took really good care of us. Joseph quiet & funny was always there to help.

Congratulations to you, an amazing holiday and amazing crew.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Linda Davies, UK - Kenya and Tanzania Family Trip, July 2009
Mandy - Hi, it was brilliant - a holiday of a lifetime and really inspirational - in fact it delivered for us on several levels - as individuals and as a family. An immense team you have - you are so much bigger than in number and we can't thank Dave, Tarn and Joseph enough for their energy, support, wisdom and patience; I hope we can stay in touch.

...Thank you for the research and for coming up with such a stunning iitinery. It's been a long time since a holiday has been able to feed the soul - I might have to do another next year!! Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Alex Thomson, Canada - Tanzania, October 2008
Dear John & Mandy,  Ruth & I have just returned home, having had a trip of a lifetime in Tanzania with Escape Adventures.  Our full group gelled very well and thoroughly enjoyed Dave, Elysia, Joseph, and support vehicle: Sabrina.  The trip provided Ruth & I awonderful insight to the people, the land, and the wildlife of this beautiful country.  Your company was extremely well represented by your team.  I loved them all.  We can't begin to express how pleased we were with everything.  This note gives a big hug to our team and a warm thanks to you for your excellent choice in staff and adventure sites.  Sincerely, Alex

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Story by Brian Anderson (on his second trip with us), Canada - China and Tibet, September 2008
From Air China inflight magazine:"Under the vicissitude and hoodwinkers through the ages, the climax of life is still where it starts to sail, with its pristine nature unchanged deep in the bustle". You find this sort of rubble-writing when translators try to attach English words to the Chinese picturesque language symbols.   We're just back from 16 days of cycling the west-central area of China. We biked almost 800 kms., reaching into the Tibetan highlands and touching some of the rural, raw and wonderful landscape of the country.  

 

We first visited the Panda Bear Research Station in Chengdu where pandas are bred in captivity. This spring, they had 9 pandas give birth to 15 young cubs (and pandas can only rear one at a time) so there were young being raised by handlers in an atmosphere not unlike a neo-natal ward. Evidently pandas are cute in a wooly, black and white way. They move occasionally and with a languid calm. They look like they might have a pretty good sense of humour, even on their gritty diet of bamboo.  

 

Another highlight was getting a glimpse of the Tibetan province. The Tibetan plateau is regarded as the foothills to the Himalayas so it took a bit of doing on bikes. One hot day we climbed for 38 kms. to an altitude of about 14,000 ft.. I was leaking oil by lunch time. You needed to call up your personal mantra, put you in the motivational trance needed for the job. But it was worth it. The plateau is a land of Tibetan monks and monasteries, nomads with their small herds of yaks, and where you escape the congestion of China proper. We visited a  monastery bustling with the activity which makes them famous. Perhaps bustling is the wrong word for 30 monks chanting in the gloom and incense of their mid-day workout. We all felt a small donation would be appropriate given the great privilege of being guided through the building by a senior monk. And money was everywhere, tucked in amongst the burning candles, in boxes, in every gap in the woodwork. The monks seemed indifferent even to collecting it. We also were guided to a special bedroom on an upper floor where the 7th, 9th and 14th (current) Dalai Lama had slept. It was a shrine,

 

If a communist is someone who has given up all hope of becoming a capitalist,  we certainly didn't find many communists. Villages are bulging with one-room shops, cities seem to overflow with them...and everything else. Chengdu city has over 4 million folk and everyone seems busy making money or spending it.  As we had expected, pollution is one inevitable side effect of so much new growth in the country, and bad practices are hard to overcome. The black stink of diesel haunts the air, sewage is drained into whatever seems convenient, and the Chinese truly love to blow their vehicle horns. There must be hundreds of situations in the Chinese driving code calling for the use of horns (passing, not passing, turning, thinking of turning, greeting, warning, give-way, why didn't you give way?,  it's Monday.....you get the idea). The high grassland of the Tibetan plateau is much fresher, if only because the population is sparse (by China standards) and they seem to prefer motorbikes to cars. But yet, everywhere, the country is clean, much cleaner than, say, Italy or Ireland. Street cleaners are everywhere, even on the highways, with brooms. One of the many curiosities of the place: the air and water are dirty, but the land is clean.  

 

We also saw something of the life of a typical Chinese rural family: Child, parents and grandparents in the same house; pigs, chickens and goats in a small poopy sty  in the open 'basement' of the house (handy for tossing in scraps); satellite dish and big screen TV for absorbing political messages; sewage draining into a small cement tank in the backyard which was capped to produce methane gas used by the kitchen stove; the excess sewage went for garden fertilizer; and every inch of space devoted to plants of some sort.   There is a lot of heavy lifting going on in the countryside. Planting and harvesting is still hands-on, toting heavy sacks, shuffling about with two large water buckets across the shoulders, stooping and stacking, many hands flailing the rice harvest into the collecting boxes.   When people are idle, they have a passion for gambling, and a favourite card game is "beat the landlord" (an obvious poke at privilege and power preached by the Revolution, but which now seem to be the aspiration of the modern Chinese). It's a game of all-against-one, team play with the odds generally favouring the little people. The Chinese were fascinated to see a group of Westerners playing their national game.  

 

And you might wonder about the food. If it walks, flies or floats, the Chinese will eat it; basically, anything they can bite. I tried frog and eel, but not the 'brittle bones of chicken claw'. The yak milk tea (mostly yak milk) is very good. Generally, the heavy emphasis on spices and sauces stuns the western taste buds - as though the sun wrapped in flame was rising on your tongue - so that texture of food is the lasting impression....and that's why you avoid buckwheat noodles. Feels like something slowly passed through a live dog. With a bit more exposure, appreciation of the food increases. There is so much variety, unique blends (meats, shoots and leaves), eggplants, tofus, cabbages, none of which appealed to me until put through a good Chinese kitchen.  

 

Overall, this was a remarkable adventure in every sense. And the trip leaders, John and Mandy, who also own the company (www.escapeadventures.co.nz) take such care in planning, organizing and client service that all you have to do is show up.  Ours was a pin-hole view of Chinese and Tibetan lifestyle/culture, but enough to see the warts and contradictions, the orderly chaos, the industriousness, the warm and friendly smiles, Chinese opera, and to marvel at the landscape.  In a nation that populated and complex, you're amazed not that things get done well, but that they get done at all. You see very little sharp-edged poverty. Staying clear of politics and social policy, I certainly have a greater admiration for China, vicissitudes and hoodwinkers notwithstanding. Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Poem by Janice Pritchard (on her third trip with us), Canada - China and Tibet, September 2008

Opposites Attract
Oh East is East and West is West
And never the twain shall meet.
Til six brave bikers ride side by side
And attempt to cross the street.

 

Oh, you may talk of your feats of bravery
Of strength and derring-do
But you are nobody til you you've cycled
Through the streets of old Chengdu

 

Oh, Black is Black and White is White
And hopefully the two do meet
Then incubators fill with babies galore,
Little pandas that look so sweet.

 

Oh, Up is Up and Down is Down
And eventually the two must meet.
But only at the top of Jaido Pass
When you reach 14,124 feet.

 

Oh,  Sit is Sit and Squat is Squat
And you rarely find and seat.
So you must learn when in China
To pee between your feet.

 

Oh, Spice is Spice and Plain is Plain
Be careful with Chinese meat.
It will burn your mouth and fry your brain,
Sichuan means hot- not sweet.

 

Oh, South is South and North is North
But sometimes the twain do meet.
When bikers from opposites ends of the Earth
Meet to travel over China's peaks.
Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Sarah & Scott Floyd, USA - Tanzania, August 2008
We had a fantastic trip with Escape - what a wonderful way to see Africa.  Thank you so much.  You have a fantastic company - your customer service is just amazing.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Wendy Benoit, Canada - Kenya and Tanzania, September 2007
Hi there Mandy! Just wanted to say WOW, you folks have truly left no stone, or more correctly, no wheel unturned. From my first contact with you via pretrip e-mails, right down to when the group parted ways and rode off into the 'sunset'; all was great! Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Clare Cook, UK - Kenya and Tanzania, August 2007
A spiritual experience that has left a profound impact on me. Every stage was a privilege and we kept saying at the end of every day: "it doesn't matter what happens from now on cos we've had our money's worth". More than everything the trip offers a unique way to not only see but experience Africa and it's wonderful people.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Jane Thurnell-Read, UK - Kenya and Tanzania, July 2007
Brilliant! I have done supported tours in USA, Cuba, Brazil and Europe and this is the gold standard in terms of support, food, attention to detail, professionalism, friendliness etc. etc. I cannot recommend this company too highly. Go have fun! Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Andrew Gambrell, UK - Kenya and Tanzania, June 2007
In essence I thought this was an incredible trip for both a cyclist or someone who just wants to get some feeling of what East Africa is like. I'm biased as I know that being on a bike is the best way to see a country but this is just a great journey. The relationships you have built on the way are a testament to you all and how you run this trip. All biking holiday companies should come on this to see how it should be done.....

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Anja Pluschke, Australia - Uganda / Kenya and Tanzania, May and June 2007
Africa? On a mountain bike? Are you crazy?? Just some of the comments I received before I headed off to Eastern Africa to do both the Ugandan and Kenya/Tanzanian bike trips offered by Escape Adventures. If you want to experience Africa in a unique and fascinating way - This is it! (trust me). As I was pedalling along some Maasai walking tracks and (ok I admit it) carrying my bike down some short (too steep for me) sections in the Usumbara Mountains, I kept thinking 'How on earth did John and Mandy find these remote and 'funky' sections of East Africa to cycle through??' I'm sure glad they did though, because these areas are far off the tourist beaten track and for this reason so much more special. Cycling past children so excited to see Muzungus they are almost crying is a pretty overwhelming experience as well. A little warning though, if you have the balancing skill of a wildebeast (of which you should see millions - well at least thousands) don't attempt to wave to the children at any great speed, because you'll come a cropper, to gales and peals of laughter! However, if you dust yourself off quickly and hop back on your bike, your dignity may be relatively preserved... but 'Oh what the heck, you're mountain biking in Africa - How cool is that??' If you've thought about cycling in Africa with Escape Adventures - Do it! If you've dreamed about it- Do it! If you're reading this now, wondering if you should do it - Do it! I strongly recommend it as a once in a lifetime experience that can be summarised by the words "Simply Fantastic"! Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
Christopher Whitfeld (age 69) on his second trip with us, UK - Uganda, May 2007
"Uganda is the pearl of Africa," said Winston Churchill. His assessment of that country is reproduced on a loo wall in Jinja. You will find it when you get on your bike and go there with Escape Adventures. You will discover it is true. And you will not be disappointed as you stand outside that loo and watch the sun setting over the Nile. You will not be disappointed as you lie in your tent and listen to the night jungle noises in the tall surrounding trees. You will not be disappointed as you cycle through the villages to the laughing, chanting greetings of a hundred children. You will not be disappointed even when challenged, hands behind your back, to a straw-eating contest. Just go... And see for yourself.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Karen Savage (on her third trip with us), New Zealand - Chile, February 2007
I truly enjoyed every day as such a tour is my ideal way of relaxing. My brain can stop still, I don't have to cook, yet I can enjoy good company, good food and personal physical challenges on my bike. I can do what I enjoy all day without guilt. I am not the 'cruise' or 'bus-tour' type tourist. I need to be actively involved in my travel. Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Tony McLean, UK - Chile, February 2007
Thanks for a superb trip, a real sense of adventure and achievment without the uncertainties of going alone, great bunch of like minded strangers who soon became friends.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Caroline Derouet, Canada - Kenya and Tanzania, October 2006
The only concerns I had about the trip were personal ones, for example getting sick or getting mugged. The 'lonely planet' books have a way of making it seem like you're taking your life in your hands by visiting Africa. I did feel better when I read your 'myths about Africa' section on the website but I only truly felt better when I got there and saw how safe it was. Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Kathy Churchill, UK - Dragoman Charity Ride, September 2006
What a great trip! We had such an amazing time and Steph, Ad and Nash were brilliant. They worked so well as a team, great food, organizational skills and they quietly went that extra mile for us. Please pass on these comments to John as they are all a real asset.

 

The cycling was so much better than I expected and I really enjoyed it - even the sand! We all coped pretty well and although the 99km day was tough we all came together as a team and nobody struggled. Pretty hot though - 40 degrees by the lake so that pool was a welcome sight. Seeing the schools was very moving and we are all taking home some experiences we won't forget.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Jim Eyden and Karen Nicholls, Canada - Kenya and Tanzania, June 2006
We had a fantastic holiday with Escape Adventures and it was everything we had hoped for and more. We saw most of the wild animals Africa is famous for and in their natural habitat as we biked across the plains and mountains of Kenya and Tanzania. It is truly a thrill to be biking along and have a view of a herd of Giraffe,Zebra or gazelle pass in front of you. The views of the landscapes in the Ngorongoro Crater, Mount Kilimanjaro and Usambara Mountains were breathtaking. Escape Adventure staff were very knowledgeable and offered unique insights into the cultural differences of the regions as well as interesting facts about the unique vegetation, farming practices and lifestyles. We particularly enjoyed visiting a small pre-school and conversing with local Masai people. The biking was challenging on some days but not too difficult so it appeals to a wide variety of capabilities and there were opportunities for more experienced riders to put the hammer down.

 

One other footnote is that the camp food on the trip was anything but camp food and we truly enjoyed the variety and the quality of what was provided. Thanks for your recommendation and if I return to Africa I would most likely use Escape Adventures as the tour provider. Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
Audrey Silver, UK - Kenya and Tanzania, January 2006
Hi. I had a really great time with Escape Adventures. Biking - what a great way to experience Africa. It was everything I have been looking for. Good preparation, support and organisation, the planning showed in the variety and range of experience. Plus excellent food, bikes and kit, and interesting company. Although not a cheap holiday, it was certainly worth it, and I would like to go with them again next year. Loved it.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Suzette Lang, USA/UK - Kenya and Tanzania, December 2005
My most Memorable Moments:
1. First spotting of a zebra in the wild and not in a Wildlife Park
2. Sitting around the campfire (which we rarely had as John believed and which I entirely agree because of the extensive deforestation in Africa for wood that is used by the locals etc for fuel) and then walking out to the tent, looking up and seeing black, black sky with a zillion starts and hearing animal noises in the background.
3. Standing naked, jumping / dancing while trying to catch the shower water from the water bag hung on one side of the bus on a very windy afternoon with the tents on the other side and nothing but the African scrub and horizon on the shower side.
4. At the same location, sitting 150 feet up on the rock outcrop having a supper picnic watching the sun set sipping wine made at the monastery in Tanzania.
5. At the same location, sitting around with the Masai guards on night asking questions about the culture and just discussing life.
5. Riding "no hands" across the dry lake (approx. 16 km) of Lake Amboseli.
6. The colours of the women's robes and headscarves in the hills of Tanzania; at the marketplace there was every imaginable colour!
7. A special Christmas lunch packed by Mandy after having spent the morning touring around Ngorogoro Crater seeing lions, rhinos, elephants, buffalo, zebra, wildebeest, hyenas, birds, etc.
8. Finally (but sadly as the trip was finishing) riding to the first sighting and swim in the Indian Ocean. Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Megan Williams, USA - Kenya and Tanzania, December 2005
This trip offers a unique opportunity to those who wish to see Africa from more than a bus window or a lodge balcony. It is a once in a lifetime opportunity, and I would recommend it to anyone who likes to bike, be outside, and camp. Mandy, John, and Nash, the trip leaders, are knowledgeable and personable. John's family immigrated from Kenya to New Zealand, Nash is from a village North of Nairobi, and Mandy is an awesome cook--plying us with fresh biscotti and fruit on our bike breaks and cooking us pancakes in the morning to get us jump started. They have carefully researched routes and places to give the group a diverse experience of the landscapes and people in Kenya and Tanzania. A sample day best demonstrates this trip's character. We began the day early--breaking camp from inside Amboseli National Park with a game drive where we saw the big five. We then drove for about 45 minutes out of the park to bike across dry Lake Amboseli which was so hot that mirages of water shimmered on either side of us. We ended the day at the base of a huge rock outcropping near a Masaai village that Escape Adventures has developed a relationship with over the years. That evening, we had a "colonial" dinner of wine, fresh cheeses, salads, and fruits, on the rock. With the sun setting in the distance over the savanna and the silhouettes of acacia trees and the occasional giraffe's head, we lit a camp fire and spoke (via Nash, our translator) with two of the leaders of the Masaai village as a prelude to our visit to their actual homes the next day. As this stellar day should reveal, this trip offers a once in a life time opportunity to the person who wishes to learn more about the people, and not just the animals, in Africa. Two thumbs up!
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
An email to Mandy's father Roger:
By Christopher Whitfeld (aged 68), UK - Kenya and Tanzania, September 2005

The slave trade from Nairobi to Dar es Salaam is alive and kicking, thanks to the treatment meted out by John & Mandy, aided and abetted by one Nash.

We were driven, in (bicycle) chains as it were, up hill and up more hill, through thorn fields, sandstorms and the heat of the day, across the Maasai plains and parched lakes, into the Usambara mountains... till we finally fell, dusty and exhausted, into the Indian Ocean at Bagamoyo. It was hell on two wheels... It was wonderful... Escape Adventure? We had the adventure, but there was no escape.

No, that's not at all what Mandy wanted me to tell you. OK, it was a fab trip, really really enjoyed by both Carole and me. Yes, it was seriously challenging, that's the honest truth, but we survived and, even if I say it reluctantly - which of course I don't - John and your daughter were magnificient - superb in all their doings (and some of their doings are pretty strange for we mere westerners). They led us effectively and efficiently, gently spurring us on and accepting our limitations and weaknesses with generous sympathy. And Nash was always there behind us to pick up the pieces when necessary - which was occasionally, but not too often!

As anticipated, some of the going was on the rough side for us non-mountain bikers, but that was more than compensated for by the excellence of the company, the fodder and the sense of achievement at the end of each day - all with the added bonus of meeting people and seeing places well off the normal tourist trail. A highly commendable and enterprising idea of John's which we are so pleased to have been able to benefit from. Back to the top.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Geoff Etherington (aged 70), New Zealand - Uganda AND Kenya and Tanzania, July/August 2005
Escape adventures run very professional and exciting trips that are very worthwhile for any adventurous spirit. Fond memories will linger for many a day well into the future for this septuagenarian. A most wonderful experience. Well done to all the crew.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mike Flack, UK - Uganda, October 2004
This is a must holiday for those with a bit of an adventurous spirit and those that don't mind getting close to the locals and the wildlife. The well known sanitation problems are blown away by the amazing sites, sounds and views. But, if you really don't like camping, then don't do it! The Escape Adventures guys were brilliant. I don't know how they manage to cook up such marvellous fresh food on such spartan equipment. The cycling was magnificently diverse in both terrain and outlook - far from worrying about sore bot's, it was something to look forward to each day. All capped off by a day with the Gorillas! This was 'life changing' stuff. The only real niggle was the difficulty in changing travellers cheques locally - some good advice would have been useful here. Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 
Off the Beaten Track
By Dave Mitchell, New Zealand - Kenya and Tanzania, August 2004
Someone once said "its not the things in life you do that you come to regret but the things you don't do" So when the opportunity to visit Africa and in particular East Africa by bicycle came along I jumped on board. It was an Escape Adventures trip organised by John Etherington, a New Zealand dude with a wicked sense of humour.

 

The trip cruises through Kenya from Nairobi taking back roads and trails into Tanzania and ends in Dar es Salaam. Apart from reading the ramblings in the Economist and watching the odd wildlife skit I was blissfully ignorant of Africa, but was sure it would be an adventure.We had a back up vehicle named Turtle to carry the camping kit and food. Turtle and its trailer are probably the closest a vehicle has ever got to Swiss army knife status with its fold out kitchen, slide out pantry, pop up roof tent and hidden attachments too numerous to name. John was a motor mechanic in a past life, a useful trade for these remote trips. His sidekick Mandy was in charge of food and rode her trusty creaking Specialized FSR mountain bike. Tail end Charlie, Nash a local Kenyan, did the driving, interpreting and a bit of everything else. Lucy Ireland a London lass, Lynda Pedley and Glenn MacCrimmon a Canadian couple who have cycled most of the globe and myself made up the A team.

 

We left Nairobi taking the back roads through the gently rolling country to Amboseli National Park and our first breath taking view of Mt Kilimanjaro, its snow top just poking out of the clouds. The road surface was hard packed red dirt but we made the most of the local bike trails running parallel or short cutting the route. Giraffe, zebra and gazelle cruised across our path heading through the acacia forest and Masai villages we were encountering on the way. The local kids came running out of these villages to cheer us on, as if we were in a race.

At the edge of the Park we swap our bikes for the security of the 4WD and head out on safari with our cameras and binoculars at the ready. Its almost surreal watching herds of zebra, wildebeest, and elephant trundling around below the watchful eye of a hazy Mount Kilimanjaro. The hippos were doing what they do best, which involves mud and water. It was all too much to take in as we headed to camp for the night. We watched Kili clear of cloud as the sun set and the moon rose, as if on cue.

We left Amboseli National Park pleased to be back on our bikes. We rode the hard brown cracked earth that is the dry bed of Lake Amboseli. The mirage of water far ahead evaporated as we rode onwards. The bobbing heads of giraffe moved east above the heat haze on the peripheral edge of the lakebed towards the base of the mountains.

 

John has a knack for cultivating good relationships where ever he goes and our campsite below Ngararabuni rocks proved the point. We passed the rectangular shaped houses of the Masai village on the west side of this rock, the children were very excited to see us. We set up camp and were soon welcomed by our hosts and protectors.

 

We headed up onto the spine of the rock climbing to its summit for sundowners and an expansive view of the surrounding terrain. Below us goats were being herded into the protection of the village enclosed by a thorny acacia hedge. We could see groups of cattle and goats coming from far and wide. Their dusty progress illuminated in gold as the sun hovered hesitantly above the horizon. Sunset cast light upon the snow top of Killi and the last long shadows over the plains below.

We visited the adjacent village and were treated to a demonstration of the Masai matchbox, a spun stick of hardwood against a flat piece of softwood with dried goats dung as the initial fuel. Where there is smoke, there is fire, proved correct and in no time they had a blaze going. This proved a lot harder for us to do with Glenn having the best technique.

With land and property a Masai man can have between one and four wives, they each build their own house out of a wooden frame and cow dung mixed with mud for the walls and roof. A fire inside provides cooking, repels insects and warms the cool nights. In the dry season they consume yoghurt made from cows blood and milk with the occasional BBQ goat thrown in. There is little spare water for drinking let alone washing.

A few of the men have acquired the black (Phoenix) Chinese and (Hero) Indian made bicycles and pedal the dusty tracks to the local villages, they look the part peddling around with their spears on the top tube and mates on the carrier. On a previous trip John had initially sold Mandy for 30 cows, but this offer was reduced when they found out about her post teenage status. We managed to sell Lucy for 15 cows but had to lie about her age.

We headed for the mountains winding our way through a variety of small settlements and a number of dusty mission posts with their attached schools. There was plenty of wildlife in this area, giraffe grazing the treetops and moving past the local herds of goats and cattle. The road became rough and sandy climbing up to a little town on the border of Kenya and Tanzania. A colourful café provided much needed refreshments before heading off down main street shopping. We bartered for purple skinned onions, bright red tomatoes, lady finger bananas and green peppers. The avocados were huge and proved delicious in our guacamole. We camped on soft lush green grass, enjoyed cold Kili Beer and South African red wine in the afternoon sun at our campsite.

We rolled across the border the next day and into Tanzania, a painless 30 minutes of officialdom where US dollars were extracted. A bit less English spoken was the only indicator that we had moved into another country. We encounter Masai youth with black and white facial paint herding their stock as we rode to the small town of Mto Wa Mbu at the base of the rift valley escarpment. Massive trees of nesting cranes lined the road into town. We head to the market to soak up the colour and do some bartering where John picked up some new recycled tyre tread sandals after managing to trade his old ones in.

Before dawn we were off on safari to the Ngorongoro crater climbing up through shiny green rain forest caught in fluffy white cloud. The descent into the crater is steep and rough and as we emerged out of the mist into what would have been a lost world many centuries ago. To our west a soda lake of pink flamingos with herds of zebra and wildebeest making an early morning trek across the crater. We spotted Hippos going from mud hole to mud hole watched by a group of hyena. Time seems to compress as a female cheetah stalked a Thomson's gazelle, she accelerated and turns it before tripping it up. Her three large cubs come in for the final kill. This was exciting stuff and in contrast to the three lions we had observed earlier lazing in the sun. We finally saw a couple of rhino way off in the distance and a lone cheetah sunning itself. All to soon it was time to head back to our camp at Arusha.

 

We continued south below the ever-present peak of Kilimanjaro and into the Masai Steppe, a huge plain that stretches as far as the eye can see interrupted occasionally by the odd hill or depression. The huge trunk of the upside down Baobab tree with its leafless branches, dominate the savannah and can live for 1000 years. They look very much like they have been pulled out of the ground and stuck back in upside down.

Our ride took us beside a section of Tanzanian railway track that services the sisal industry. Disused water tanks and filler nozzles remain, not pressed onto service since steam trains plied this route. The sisal industry almost disappeared when synthetics became cheap but has managed a bit of a revival now natural fibres have become popular. We pass a series of old abandoned railway stations ten kilometres apart, the locals have moved in and were enjoying a siesta in the hot sun. Our destination the Pangani River camp delivers up a stunning sunset and a hot shower that evening, while monkeys jump between treetops above and crocs ply the river unseen.

 

We left the plains and climb into the Usambara Mountains biking on towards the old colonial town of Lushoto. German colonialists had built their homes in the European style in these beautiful cool mountains and amongst the local dwellings they looked somewhat out of place. The plains below stretched out endlessly and surrounding hillsides a patchwork of intensive cultivation with irrigation races crisscrossing these slopes.

The cloud was rolling in as we set up camp at Mullers Mountain Lodge. We enjoyed the warmth of a large campfire as the evening temperature dropped rapidly to single figures and we moved in closer to the fire. At 1400 meters this was to be expected. The next day we headed out walking through the village and up into the hills following local farm tracks to a high point and view across this rolling range of mountains we were in. The track down took us to the local school and the 400 pupils coming out to welcome us.

John had organised on the previous trip for local carpenters to build five school desks and Nash had been in charge of delivering them undetected. The kids soon spotted his familiar face and twigged to what was going on. Helping out the school in a practical way had become a project of Johns, one that was enthusiastically supported by people who had come on his many trips. Donations of stationery, balls, pens, chalk and money for desks had been put to good use. We were treated like honoured guests with the whole school turning out to sing and dance for us. A moving experience that sent tingles down the spine.

The next day we made full use of the network of tracks that permeate these mountains, riding single track between remote villages. It was a navigational challenge and John rose to the occasion. The ride turned in a few surprises the first one being how populated this area was. After lunch we rode up an old grass covered farm track to discover two groups of forestry workers pit sawing trees opposite each other in the valley. This was all by hand, one below and one above dragging a pit saw through the huge trunk.

Just around the next corner we ran into the Benedictine Monastery, the Fathers have been farming this piece of paradise for over half a century. We talked to Father Thomas who had come out from Switzerland in 1948. He explained how they were trying to lead by example showing the locals how to grow high value crops instead of maize. They had quinine, coffee, macadamia nuts and a wide variety of grapes growing on the property along with cows for milk, cheese and butter. Their white wine proved to be not a bad drop and they also produce a cheeky red altar wine but we didn't indulge. We crammed our packs with bottles and nuts and headed onward and upward.

 

Following the ridge tops north it was time to descend and what a downhill it turned out to be. We discovered narrow gauge single track that proved both steep and gnarly. We were soon followed by local kids cheering us all the way. It felt like a world cup downhill race with Lucy enjoying her first gnarly single track and receiving the biggest cheer from the enthusiastic throng. The bottles of wine in our pack survived even after the odd tumble. The final 14-kilometre descent from the Usambara Mountains delivered us to a humid 30 degrees on the plains below. It was time to head for the sea.

A series of dirt back roads took us through sleepy coconut treed villages on our way to the historic town of Bagamoyo. An on-shore wind strengthened as we neared the coast but also kept us cool as we ploughed our way through the growing puddles of thick sand. Bagamoyo was once a major slave and trading route for East Africa sitting strategically on the Indian Ocean. Our shady beach camp retreat of white sand on this tropical coast greeted us. A seascape of sailboats streamed towards the beach from beyond the horizon as if an invasion from the movie Troy. They were the local fishermen bringing their catch to market and we were heading in their direction to get some for dinner.

We awoke the next morning to the call to prayer from the surrounding mosque and headed to the beach to watch the fisherman sail out as the sun rose. We biked through the old part of Bagamoyo, the buildings looking distinctly like those in Havana and headed down the coast to our final destination Dar es Salaam. Dar es Salaam is colourful vibrant and a fitting place to end the trip, it was founded in 1866 by the sultan of Zanzibar and its Arabic name means haven of peace. We finished on the beach just up the coast from town where the water is 28 degrees and just waiting to be swum in. It was sad to come to the end of such a good trip, to pack up and say goodbye to everyone and Africa. But all good things must come to an end so they can start again all over.

The myths of African travel
The myths of African travel abound, most are unfounded and like visiting any country of the world becoming informed and going prepared is the best strategy. The large animals are awe inspiring and rarely dangerous, if you use common sense. The local food is organic, fresh and much healthier than in many western countries. The water isn't contaminated by agricultural chemicals and pesticides and can easily be filtered or treated against bugs. Biting insects are localised and seasonal and thus can be avoided, or by using repellents, mosquito nets and usually just by simply covering up. It's not all hot either, with the cool dry season being the best time for biking. By sticking to back roads it is safer than many western countries. Good clean camping ground accommodation abounds and English is widely spoken.

 

John's idea was to show off the beauty of Africa in the best way possible, by bicycle. It adds a different dimension to travel, the smells, colours and feel of the wind that no vehicle can replicate.

The Detail
The ride: Organised by John Etherington of Escape Adventures
The Flights: Emirates Airline has the best and most direct route from Australia/New Zealand (Downunder) and most of Europe, modern planes and excellent service especially when handling bicycles.

 

Accommodation/Side Trips
John can organise your airport pickup and accommodation in Nairobi, upgrades along the way when available and post ride trips to climb mountains, visit Zanzibar Island or whatever takes your fancy. Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Karen Cudahy, Australia - Uganda, July 2004
I thoroughly enjoyed this holiday. It was amazing. Very well planned and organised by escape adventures. The itinerary was brillant as we got to see two countries rather than one. There was just enough challenge in it so as not to be too frightening. The memory will remain fond in my mind for a very long time. The best holiday I have been on.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
African Escape - By Janice Pritchard, Canada - Kenya and Tanzania 2003
The male elephant sauntered across the track about 100 yards behind of us. The herd of zebras and gazelles observed us curiously, while the slow moving gnus just stood and watched. On safari? Yes but with a difference. The six of us were in the first days of a two-week mountain bike trip that would take us from Nairobi (Kenya) to Dar es Salaam (Tanzania).

 

We were just on the border of Amboseli National Park in Kenya. We had spent a wonderful day inside the park watching and incredible array of animals in their natural surroundings. But now at the unfenced edge of the park we were able to mount our bikes once more and actually ride with Africa's finest. Our trip consisted of rides of 30 to 90 kilometres a day through the varied terrain of Kenya and Tanzania. We rode through high plateaus full of game and acacia trees, through dry lakebeds and mountain valleys, and sometimes on paved, though lightly traveled roads.

One evening we sat on top of a red clone of Ayers rock; we had a view of the desert for miles around. Behind us, the brilliant glow of an African sunset lit up the snowcapped summit of Mt Kilimanjaro. Below us was our camp of support vehicle and eight tents. As we enjoyed our chilled South African wine and nibbled on cheese and sun-dried tomatoes, we watched the Maasai herding their cattle and goats into the small village at the base of the rock. As we finished our picnic of fresh fruit and French bread, the nomadic Maasai locked their cattle into thorn bush corrals and had their evening meal-a mixture of cows blood and milk. Not the most surreal moment of the trip, but one of the
most memorable!

 

The six of us have come from around the world: Canada, Netherlands, New Zealand and England to join New Zealander John Etherington from Escape Adventures on this unique and unforgettable trip. He has imported high quality mountainbikes and picked the routes himself to give us an exhilarating and challenging trip of about 600 kilometres on the bikes. For most of us our favorite day was the mountain leg, which included 55 kilometres of downhill. Of course, there was a price to pay for all that downhill, but it was worth it!

 

The excitement and cheers of encouragement from every school child and goatherder that we passed punctuated our days. In many areas, very few white people, let alone mountainbikers, were to be seen. Children would run out of their schoolrooms to laugh and giggle at us as we struggled up the hills. I'm sure many teachers were less than impressed by our ability to destroy their lessons as the children often ran with us for hundreds of meters. We definitely provided a great deal of entertainment in an area that has no TV.

 

All of us were touched by a visit to a school, high in the mountains. Our meager gifts of pencils and note pads were warmly accepted and the younger children sang for us with beautiful voices and bright smiles. We were humbled by the students' obvious love of their school and enjoyment of learning.

 

Our trip drew to a close on the beach at Dar es Salaam. The white sand and incredibly warm water provided luxurious and well-deserved relaxation for our final day. We had just biked for 60 kilometres along the slave route that had been used up to almost 1900. It was saddening to think of the vast numbers of slaves who were marched along this trail to the coast to be shipped to Zanzibar where they were sold. A sobering reminder of the real world that we would have to rejoin soon.

 

Is this the trip for everyone? Probably not, unless you love the outdoors, animals, biking, challenges, good company, good food, being active and Africa. Was this a trip for me? You Betcha. This was the trip of a lifetime, an African Escape to remember and savor. Asante sana, John, asanti sana. Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Anita, Belguim - Kenya and Tanzania 2003
Keep up the good work! You're head and shoulders above other organizations/organizers that I have travelled with. (This is no undue flattery).

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Penny, New Zealand - Kenya and Tanzania 2003
Africa, it was all that I had hoped for and more.
What made it so special was the way in which John of Escape Adventures (www.escapeadv.com) had created such a well balanced trip. It included varied and contrasting countryside to bike through (90% off road), introductions to local people, visits to game parks and historical places, great food thanks to Lulu who cooked and cared for us and Peter our backup driver was the fastest puncture mender in the East!

We finished at the Indian Ocean which was heaven to bathe in.The first 5 days we were biking across the vast plains or steppes belonging to the Maasai people, seeing different animals and meeting lots of Maasai cattle and goats. When sleeping out in the wild local Maasai warriors sat by our campfire to ensure our safety. It was good to be able to talk to some of them about their way of life and what the future holds for them. Visiting Amboseli National Park, tucked under Kilimanjaro on the Kenyan side and Ngorongoro Crater in Tanzania gave us the opportunity to enjoy lots of the birds and animals of Africa including lions, hippos, rhino, hyena, warthogs, many elephants, wildebests, zebras, impalas, gazelle, buffalos, flamingos and others.

The second week we spent cycling east towards the coast and diverted off into the Southern Pare mountains for a day's hike and the lush, green Usambara mountains. We cycled through lots of small villages and heavily cultivated hillsides. We stayed at a campsite attached to a guest lodge that is an old German colonial house with the most fantastic garden. Our last journey was along the original road to the sea that used to be the slave route to Bugamoyo, the port where slaves were shipped out to Zanzibar and further east. It was an eerie experience. We then went on to Dar es Salam and camped just south of the city - fantastic swimming and relaxing on the beach before we all went our separate ways. Back to the top.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mark, Australia - Kenya and Tanzania 2003
I didn't know what to expect when I got there but it was definitely